Harden's survey result
Following the departure of Nathan Outlaw, Adam Simmonds is to take over the stoves in the dining room of this luxury hotel, a short walk from the back of Harrods. The new venture will open in autumn 2019. Simmonds’s pedigree is good, and he’s the latest in a succession of star names to hold the position in the hotel. The main limitation on enjoyment here has historically been the dimensions of the dining room itself: it’s a small space, where it’s hard to generate much in the way of spark.
With its “perfectly prepared and delicately flavoured dishes”, Nathan Outlaw’s Knightsbridge outpost lives up to his renown for “truly excellent and creative fish cuisine” and ranks amongst the UK’s best in that respect. The location, near the back of Harrods, is a “small” hotel dining room that has for decades divided opinion: to fans “smart” and “sophisticated”, but to others “lacking some character”; although the “excellent service” from the current team helps boost its appeal. Chef Andrew Sawyer succeeded Tom Brown (who left to found Cornerstone) in late 2017, and though a small minority of reporters feel “the food has gone downhill” as a result, ratings here actually strengthened across the board this year.
“A lot easier to get to than Cornwall!” – Nathan Outlaw’s “small and intimate dining room” near the back of Harrods lives up to his renown as one of the UK’s top fish and seafood chefs with “superb and superbly fresh dishes” delivering “delightful” and “delicate” flavours. That it’s a “quiet space (so hard to find in central London)” is valued by some, although others feel “atmosphere can be lacking”. Note, the hotel – a rare independent – was sold to a small American group in January 2017. Top Tips – value-wise “the lunchtime menu is hard to beat” and “you can BYO with no corkage on Thursdays”.
“Stunning” fish and seafood “presented with panache” win huge acclaim for this “hidden gem, so close to the brassiness of Harrods”. The ambience of the “small” room is not to all tastes though – what is “quiet and dignified” to fans is to critics “staid” and “too formal”. Top Tip – BYO with no corkage on Thursdays.
|Wine per bottle||£29.00|
22-24 Basil St, London, SW3 1AT
|Monday||12 pm‑2 pm, 6:30 pm‑10 pm|
|Tuesday||12 pm‑2 pm, 6:30 pm‑10 pm|
|Wednesday||12 pm‑2 pm, 6:30 pm‑10 pm|
|Thursday||12 pm‑2 pm, 6:30 pm‑10 pm|
|Friday||12 pm‑2 pm, 6:30 pm‑10 pm|
|Saturday||12 pm‑2 pm, 6:30 pm‑10 pm|