Evening Standard
In a strong week for southeast Asian food, David Ellis found “much to adore” and nothing to deplore in the Cambodian-inspired cooking of former Kiln chef Tom Geoffrey in the Borough Market pub premises previously occupied by Khao Bird – now moved to permanent digs in Soho (see Giles Coren’s review above).
Barang means “foreigner” in Cambodia, and David admitted that he has no idea if the cooking is authentic. “In dinner party shorthand, Cambodian is similar to Vietnamese and Thai food, only with fewer chillies. At Barang, it feels like the very best of, say, Speedboat, only without any fear of the morning after”.
The absence of chilli heat allows the aromatics to roam – and on two trips during which David sampled every dish on the menu “not a dud appeared”. All that’s missing, he said, was “the sense it’s sticking around… They would do well to settle here permanently.”
David Ellis - 2026-01-25
