The Times
Giles Coren was all geared up to pour scorn on an Italian originally opened in Mayfair by “two long-forgotten ex-Chelsea players, David Luiz and Willian” (no longer involved), which has taken over the old premises of Harry Morgan’s (RIP), a landmark deli catering to the now diminished local Jewish population. As Giles put it, “Dancing on the graves of my grandparents. And so I came to bury Babbo, not to praise it.”
It turned out he was wrong. Babbo was just the sort of place his grandparents would have loved, with smart and charming service and 70s-style Italian food (aubergine parmigiana, piccata di vitello al limone) that was “absolutely spot-on. Not madly ambitious, but very precisely executed, which is what you want from a glittering local restaurant in a wealthy neighbourhood”.
Giles Coren - 2025-01-12
