Evening Standard
David Ellis was primed to castigate this cod-Italian for its childish promise of “bottomless lasagna” (misspelt, he snootily corrected: it should be the plural form, lasagne), for the exclamation mark in its name, and for the “gruesomely twee job title founder Joe Worthington has given himself: Chief Béchamel Officer”.
Instead, he had an “absolute hoot… a riot of a good-time” in an “American-Italian trattoria where the shtick plays within a hair’s breadth of parody”.
The bargain lasagne turned out to be “a kind of bait”, lasagne being too filling for multiple helpings. The rest of the menu came well up to scratch, including a green garden salad that “was a joy”, generous plates of mortadella with pistachio, and a sound beef shin ragu that was “better than Big Mamma, just about, and not nearly so pleased with itself”. Another plus point: quickly served negronis at £5 a pop before you eat (rising to £9.50 with food).
David Ellis - 2025-03-23
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