July 2017: Michael O'Hare will move his flagship restaurant to the ground floor of its existing Leeds building in September, to a site that is double the size. The interior will undergo a £1m refit.
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“The novelty of entering through Flannels menswear shop provides amusement on both the way in and out” of Michael O’Hare’s “avant garde” city-centre venture – an “airy” rooftop space over a store (and bizarrely approached through it). Its fame has spread nowadays as a “never-had-anything-like-it” experience (“if you can actually get a table”) – featuring “food as theatre” from “truly memorable” 10-course or 14-course tasting menus, all in a style that’s “gastronomic but not pompous”. “The wine-pairing is excellent too; intelligently done, and very good value”. It’s not for everyone. Even fans concede that “the food can be a bit of an assault on the senses”, and while they say that’s “in a brilliant way”, there are a few sceptics to whom it “feels a bit like Emperor’s New Clothes: too rich and with too little variation”. More commonly though, it’s judged “totally inspiring”.
Amongst the most notable restaurants in the UK – Michael Hare’s “unforgettable and must-visit” city-centre venue is “truly unique and improving exponentially”. It’s “a barn of a room” – a rooftop space over a men’s clothes store, bizarrely entered through a shop – but service is “exemplary” and in any case you are here for the cooking: “a tour de force of whimsical and exciting food” (“some dishes reduced us to giggling schoolchildren at their brilliant audacity”) from an “utterly beguiling” menu that “superficially looks gimmicky, but what it delivers is just remarkably delicious”.
“Unique, esoteric, a bit mad, but ultimately one of the UK’s most interesting restaurants!” – Michael Hare’s “thrilling” city-centre venue – a rooftop space over a men’s clothes store – leaves most reporters “blown away”. “It’s a bit weird entering through a shop”, and the “airy, light and barn-like space”, while a tad “strange”, is “not unpleasant”. A meal comprises “a never-ending set of startlingly presented dishes”, and though “some of them sound outrageous” the food that arrives is “exquisitely composed and brilliant”, and “with remarkably little gimmickry or striving for effect”. It is robbed of our highest marks by one or two refuseniks who found the performance too “bizarre, and very expensive for what you get”.
“New, and very ‘different’”, this “refreshing” city-centre venue, the creation of an ex-Noma chef, specialises in tasting menus tipped for “great combination of unusual ingredients that really excite the taste buds”; we suspect we’re going to hear more of this one!
Top Floor Flannels, 68-78 Vicar Ln, Leeds, LS1 7JH
|Tuesday||6:30 pm-8:30 pm|
|Wednesday||6:30 pm-8:30 pm|
|Thursday||12:30 pm-2 pm, 6:30 pm-8:30 pm|
|Friday||12:30 pm-2 pm, 6:30 pm-8:30 pm|
|Saturday||12:30 pm-2 pm, 6:30 pm-8:30 pm|