The Times
Giles Coren was absolutely charmed by a restaurant above a bakery in a beautiful 18th-century building on a cobbled square full of blossom trees, opposite Hull Minster. Founded on the back of a levelling-up grant, Hearth is run by a trio of “Northern hipsters with skilled palates, good attitude and a lot of soul” – chef Ryan Telford, head baker Caitlin Ogden and manager Ian Pexton.
Top pick of an impressive meal was a plate of “crispy potato puffs (pronounced ‘poofs’ up here) with truffle dressing and aged parmesan, which were like tiny potato croquettes or deep-fried, breaded gnocchi: golden, cylindrical, crispy, hot, creamy inside, under a lavish truffly aïoli and covered with cheese – imperious potato management. Deliriously good.”
In short, Giles declared: “It is a great place with good people doing grand things to great ingredients. They are not trying too hard to be super-fancy, just keeping it real.”
Giles Coren - 2024-05-05
