The Times
Chitra Ramaswamy returned to a “hidden gem” of a local seafood restaurant and wine bar in Bruntsfield which has the “enigmatic status” of being loved by chefs and regulars without being “as revered outside the capital as it deserves to be”.
Chef-patron Stuart Smith has recently tweaked the only dish on the menu since day one, salted cod mousse, using pollock instead to protect declining stocks of cod – and it is still “a knockout, comprehensively smooth with a silky mouthfeel”.
But the dish that most impressed Chitra was a “Mexican-Scottish high-summer collision” created by head chef Yash Rajpal following a trip to Mexico: slivers of cured haddock in a vivid green citrus bath bursting with lime, salt and blended chilli. “All the vivacity and fruity heat of that Latin American country is on this one chic northern European plate.”
Chitra Ramaswamy - 2026-07-19
Drinks
Extras
