Ben Chapman, founder of one of London’s hottest restaurants of last year – Smoking Goat – is set to open a second Thai BBQ venture in September 2016. Kiln, in Soho’s Brewer Street, will be a ‘side of the road type restaurant’ serving grills and a speciality daily noodle dish.
The cooking is inspired by the rural simplicity of the Thai borderlands where dishes combining Burmese and Yunanese spicing and flavours are cooked over open fire. Kiln’s menu is based around quick dishes, many cooked on a wood burning kiln oven, and grills designed by Ben. Although Thai spicing will influence the food, Kiln’s produce will be mainly British with whole animals bred specifically for the restaurant.
On the menu: Aged lamb which has been fattened by Cornwall Project farmer Dave Soper – the extra fat covering allowing the meat to be dry-aged for longer, increasing flavour. The lamb skewers ‘Gaeh Ping’ are then grilled over the Kiln’s wood embers and served simply with chilli, cumin and fresh Szechuan pepper grown in Cornwall by Sean O’Neil.
Other dishes include: Northern-style cumin heavy offal larbs; Yunnan-cured sausage; roast suckling pig; and curried cockles. Larger dishes will include roast goose with pickled greens and grilled aged sirloin.
Kiln will also serve a daily-changing speciality noodle dish made with Kiln’s own-recipe chewy egg noodles, starting with Pressed Duck Gravy Noodles. This is loosely based on the Thai comfort food ‘Kuaytiaw Pet Tuun’, an aromatic broth enriched by the juices of roasted duck carcasses crushed in a custom-built press.
The restaurant will be a functional, simple space, featuring high stools at a long stainless steel counter that curves around the length of the room. The counter will sit in front of an open kitchen where guests can watch chefs preparing and cooking dishes around the kitchen’s centrepiece, the wood burning Kiln. The wine list will feature many ‘low intervention wines’; with only one or two cases of each wine available, once it’s gone it’s gone.