The Times
Chitra Ramaswamy lunched in a “vast rectangular barn, originally a sawmill” on Balgove Farm in Fife, which serves beef fed on the farm’s lush grass, butchered in- house and barbecued “on an immense braai (a South African grill) made by a local blacksmith”.
The steaks arrive “charred in all the right places… Beautifully seasoned and rested. My juicy sirloin tastes, in that elemental way, of an animal that’s lived and died well. Which is to say of the land itself; soil, grass and air.”
Not so appealing is the apple crumble, which “comes with a custard that tastes peculiarly savoury, meaty even, as though it’s been hanging out within dripping distance of a tray of resting steaks”.
