Chef Robbie Lorraine has parked his popular retro-gourmet project in the upstairs room of the Cheshire Cheese pub off the Strand, serving a tasting menu of souped-up nostalgia from the 1980s and 90s with such dishes as confit duck eclair and scampi and chips made with poached langoustines and fried chickpeas. Downstairs you'll find bar snacks including lobster doughnuts alongside old-school cocktails.
Harden's survey result
In one of Pop Brixton’s hip containers, Robbie Lorraine’s 6-course tasting menu aims to take guests on a nostalgia trip to the 80s and 90s and is almost as much about pop culture as it is about the food. On limited feedback, though, the latter is much more than an afterthought. STOP PRESS: in July 2022, Lorraine announced that he would be leading the kitchen at the new Boys Hall in Kent and there’s no availability shown here till for the remainder of 2022, so its future direction seems up in the air.
‘You’ve never seen fine dining like this!’ is the claim at this new 28-seater amidst Pop Brixton’s containers, which first opened in December 2020 and which has its sights on a London high-street opening (originally earmarked for summer 2021). It’s a novel formula for sure, with decor modelled on a classic greasy spoon. But former Shard and Chelsea FC chef, Robbie Lorraine’s ‘brilliantly cheeky twist on classic British food’ (their words) is certainly an upscale one (crab Scotch eggs, duck éclairs, lobster doughnuts) and comes complete with ‘cocktails raided from your mum’s drinks cabinet’. In the evening, there’s a six-course tasting menu format.
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Have you eaten at Only Food and Courses?
|Wine per bottle||£33.00|
5 Little Essex Street, London, WC2R 3LD
|Thursday||6 pm‑10:30 pm|
|Friday||6 pm‑10:30 pm|
|Saturday||1 pm‑3 pm, 6 pm‑10:30 pm|