Breaking news
Harden's says
Chef Robbie Lorraine has parked his popular retro-gourmet project in the upstairs room of the Cheshire Cheese pub off the Strand, serving a tasting menu of souped-up nostalgia from the 1980s and 90s with such dishes as confit duck eclair and scampi and chips made with poached langoustines and fried chickpeas. Downstairs you'll find bar snacks including lobster doughnuts alongside old-school cocktails.
Harden's survey result
Summary
In one of Pop Brixton’s hip containers, Robbie Lorraine’s 6-course tasting menu aims to take guests on a nostalgia trip to the 80s and 90s and is almost as much about pop culture as it is about the food. On limited feedback, though, the latter is much more than an afterthought. STOP PRESS: in July 2022, Lorraine announced that he would be leading the kitchen at the new Boys Hall in Kent and there’s no availability shown here till for the remainder of 2022, so its future direction seems up in the air.
Summary
‘You’ve never seen fine dining like this!’ is the claim at this new 28-seater amidst Pop Brixton’s containers, which first opened in December 2020 and which has its sights on a London high-street opening (originally earmarked for summer 2021). It’s a novel formula for sure, with decor modelled on a classic greasy spoon. But former Shard and Chelsea FC chef, Robbie Lorraine’s ‘brilliantly cheeky twist on classic British food’ (their words) is certainly an upscale one (crab Scotch eggs, duck éclairs, lobster doughnuts) and comes complete with ‘cocktails raided from your mum’s drinks cabinet’. In the evening, there’s a six-course tasting menu format.
For 32 years we've been curating reviews of the UK's most notable restaurant. In a typical year, diners submit over 50,000 reviews to create the most authoritative restaurant guide in the UK. Each year, the guide is re-written from scratch based on this survey (although for the 2021 edition, reviews are little changed from 2020 as no survey could run for that year).
Have you eaten at Only Food and Courses?
Restaurant details
Prices
![]() |
|
---|---|
Wine per bottle | £33.00 |
Filter Coffee | £4.00 |
![]() |
|
---|---|
Bread | £0.00 |
Service | 12.50% |
5 Little Essex Street, London, WC2R 3LD
Opening hours
Monday | CLOSED |
Tuesday | CLOSED |
Wednesday | CLOSED |
Thursday | 6 pm‑10:30 pm |
Friday | 6 pm‑10:30 pm |
Saturday | 1 pm‑3 pm, 6 pm‑10:30 pm |
Sunday | CLOSED |
Best British, Modern restaurants nearby
British, Modern restaurant in Covent Garden
British, Modern restaurant in Covent Garden
British, Modern restaurant in City
Best similarly priced restaurants nearby
British, Modern restaurant in Covent Garden
French restaurant in City of London
Portuguese restaurant in Covent Garden