The Times
Giles Coren was delighted by a menu of “Nordic-skewed brasserie standards” that promised something more original than your usual hotel restaurant fare in the newly opened Newman boutique hotel. It even features a “bespoke bloody wooden sandwich trolley, with a marble deck over an ice drawer and a glass top” – although, hold da op!, Giles admitted he prefers white-bread sarnies “with a lid” to the open-topped Scandi version on black-bread.
Like many meals, he said, lunch “started off brilliant and then flattened out a bit” after an “impeccable” herring plate of three different cures (sweet grain mustard, dill cream and curry sauce), which reminded him of the Wolseley under Corbin & King, for whom Angelica’s executive chef Christian Turner used to ply his trade.
The main disappointment was a Jansson’s temptation (“potato and sprat gratin”) in which the spuds were “barely parboiled so that they were woody like salsify. Not horrid at all. Just… not quite there.”
Giles Coren - 2026-03-22
