Replacing the Harlequin (RIP) is this seasonal British restaurant from the team behind Hackney's NEST (we're not sure about all the capitals either), including chefs Johnnie Crowe and Joe Laker.
Harden's survey result
“A top addition to West London’s restaurant scene”; this quite basic, 30-seat sibling (plus terrace) to Hackney’s Nest is “dreadful to get to” (unless you happen to live in Fulham near Wandsworth Bridge), but it more than repays the effort with “innovative and well-crafted food” that’s “well-priced” plus “a great selection of wines”, all served by a “passionate” front-of-house team.
“If you live anywhere near Fulham you have to go!” and discover this “recognition-worthy” newcomer – which looks like “a proper local, but serves star-quality food”. The team behind Hackney’s Nest (Luke Wasserman, Toby Neill and Johnnie Crowe) crossed town to open this 30-seater venture plus terrace, first launching it as Harlequin (RIP) then redoing it as Fenn. “The location is not ideal” given “the continuous traffic you get on Wandsworth Bridge Road”, but “the wonderful food and wines more than make up for seeking it out”. Chef Joe Laker, ex-Anglo, is at the stoves, and his “stunning and creative” but unponcey British cooking inspires raves: “every plate is wonderfully crafted” and there’s “an interesting wine list full of surprises”, all delivered by “a charming, helpful young team”. “The tasting menu is certainly worth it – as otherwise it would be too hard to choose!”.
For 32 years we've been curating reviews of the UK's most notable restaurant. In a typical year, diners submit over 50,000 reviews to create the most authoritative restaurant guide in the UK. Each year, the guide is re-written from scratch based on this survey (although for the 2021 edition, reviews are little changed from 2020 as no survey could run for that year).
Have you eaten at FENN?
FENN Restaurant Diner Reviews
"Sadly we visited a couple of weeks before closure. The £65 tasting menu is overall very pleasant and good value. We unluckily were seated on a very small table up against the wall while most other couples were allocated a 4 size table for two even though we were the second couple to arrive. Oddly we were served with the delicious mushroom broth before our cocktails. The canapés were very good particularly the glazed belly pork. Nice potato dish. Tye hake was perfectly cooked but had sn odd and not altogether pleasant flavour. The short rib was delicious, but the fermented squash purée had an odd flavour not to my taste. Pre-desert of rhubarb was delicious. Overall an enjoyable meal but one or two slight quirks which were trying I suspect to make the dishes innovative but actually would be better omitted."
"A wonderful discovery- a great meal at a reasonable price. Aubergine custard starter was glorious, cod in a cream sauce was sweet good. Chocolate doughnut dessert was good if a tad heavy."
|Wine per bottle||£24.00|
194 Wandsworth Bridge Road, London, SW6 2UF
|Wednesday||5 pm‑9:30 pm|
|Thursday||5 pm‑9:30 pm|
|Friday||5 pm‑9:30 pm|
|Saturday||5 pm‑9:30 pm|