The Observer
Tanya Gold was as happy as Larry in a “deft” restaurant built around “familial love” from a founder, Luca Meola, who started his career very young, peeling 25kg bags of potatoes for a set of Pokémon cards in his father’s restaurant.
She declared “with no caveat” that her risotto agli asparagi was “one of the most delicious things I have ever eaten… Who knew that the woody part could be like this, if enough wine, lemon, aged parmesan and pepper are added? … You bite – or suck – down, the flavours hit the pleasure centres, and your face begins to glow.”
Pizza is less successful because it is not cooked in a wood-fired oven and lacks the requisite blackened crust. But Tonnarelli carbonara is “exquisite” and Pollo Milanese, a breaded, pan-fried chicken breast, is as thin as you might wish and “essentially, a vast, idealised chicken nugget, and that is always good”.
Tanya Gold - 2026-10-11
