The Daily Telegraph
William Sitwell enjoyed a lunch at a mid-Victorian pub, formerly the Prince
Albert, which has been repurposed as what he calls a “respectable curry house” – that is, a place with “just six small plates, six large ones, roti and rice” instead of a “laminated menu offering a thousand dishes of vague and confused origin”.
Lamb chops were “flawlessly blackened over the robata grill and with soft flesh, just a few seconds away from perfection (they could have been a touch pinker inside)” while the rotis were “really excellent, thin and so- buttery-it’s-almost-wrong”. A rich chicken curry and a “gloriously wet, dal-like mango sambar” also hit the spot.
All this led William to suggest, somewhat out of the blue: “If the government cares so much about our wellbeing as to ban adults from buying cigarettes, then it should also force knackered old pubs to become decent Indian restaurants like this.”
William Sitwell - 2024-05-19
Drinks
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