Evening Standard
Back in London (busy week) but still on a vaguely Scottish theme, David Ellis dropped in at what was once a scuzzy indie rock venue, now revived as a pub serving Portuguese food – “or what I’d call seaside European” – from chef Jamie Allan, formerly of the Plimsoll and Tollington’s.
David and three companions ordered “one of everything on the menu”, working their way merrily through olives “so big they look like they’re blowing their cheeks out”; fried eggs topped with “hunks of trout soft enough they were mistaken for fruit”; a pork escalope “as brawny as a forearm”; octopus with horseradish and tomato; a bifana “full with rightly fatty pork”; lamb samosas with a plum chutney; and black pudding, “always a hit”. There was just one miss, rabbit in piri piri sauce – although this was “by no means bad, just a little boring”.
David Ellis - 2025-10-05
