The Guardian
Poor Grace Dent suffered the indignity of a meal in a glossy, Insta-friendly modern Chinese restaurant where the cuisine “makes a trip to Wagamama seem like a street-food jaunt with Anthony Bourdain”.
Steamed gyoza “came swimming in soy and a black, sticky snot that was apparently truffle”; an aubergine bao came in a poor-quality bun and the tempura batter fell off the aubergine; while masala cod came with a green marinade that “tasted of precisely nothing: no garlic, no ginger, no chilli, no coriander – nothing”.
“Sekkoya is a prime example of why the term ‘pan-Asian’ fills me with such foreboding these days. It’s the sort of Asian food that was invented for British people and that you’d get at a Cantonese restaurant in Braintree in 1994.”
Grace Dent - 2024-04-29
