The Daily Telegraph
William Sitwell had a pretty miserable time at a Victorian village inn refurbished to an “off-the-shelf pub design – an AI rendering of clean and mismatched furniture”, with a dining room that “has all the charm of a new-build cafeteria at an old folks’ home – assisted-living chic”.
The menu aims at “finessed gastropub” food with dishes from around the world, which looked appetising enough but “in delivery lack punch”.
The highlights were the starters, sesame prawn toast combining good crunch and softness, and “delightful” beef brisket empanadas. Of the main courses, prawns were “a touch overcooked”, while a well-cooked piece of cod was drowned in a “vast and overwhelming pond” of orange romesco sauce.
William Sitwell - 2026-10-18
