Thelwall Restaurant Guide

2023 Review: Ex-Manchester House chef, Aiden Byrne’s attractive pub is cutely situated opposite said St Mary’s Church in one of the scenic commuter towns on the Cheshire/Greater Manchester borders. Steaks, burgers, pies and the likes of lobster and chips typify its quality gastrofare; and they also serve pizza and snacks from their garden ‘shack’.

“Truly fine dining without being stuffy” isn’t an easy act to pull off, but Olivier Troalen’s “traditional Gallic” venture (he first worked in England at the French Embassy in London) in the Cheshire suburbs does it with aplomb; by all accounts it “never fails to satisfy”, its “healthy northern portions” pairing with “meticulous presentation and high-quality ingredients” (“you can invite anyone, assured they won’t be disappointed”).

2021 Review: South African-born chef Ernst van Zyl and partner Liz Kellett have taken over (and substantially refurbished) this Warrington pub, which opened at the end of 2018. This new place has 60 covers, five rooms and a huge beer garden. Scant survey feedback as yet, but based on his previous gaff – The Lord Clyde in Kerridge – there’s reason to hope for notably accomplished food in this village pub.

“An excellent local restaurant with talent in the kitchen (Miarisuz Dobies) and professional front of house” (his wife); regulars are “never disappointed” by the French- and Central European-inflected food (including five- or seven-course tasting menus), with “every detail wonderful and made in-house”.

Nick Johnson’s “fun food hall” in a covered Victorian market is “still delivering on all fronts”, with “an excellent choice of stallholders” ensuring a “casual and vibrant lunch or dinner”. “To their credit they’re maintaining high standards” – although things can get fraught at busy times, with “pushy” fellow diners the main problem.

“Forget flying to southern Italy – go to Sud for wonderful pasta and other Italian dishes”, say fans of the “fresh, vibrant, authentic food” served at this “fun” Altrincham outfit with “slick and friendly service” – the original of a group now with outposts in Ancoats, Sale and Manchester city centre, and which changed its name from Sugo to avoid a clash with a Glasgow operation of that name. “Lots of eye-rolling, and funny noises came out of my mouth, and my wife and I literally didn’t speak for 15 minutes during the main course – I’ll never eat pasta with a knife and fork again!”.

Don Buddhika’s accomplished operation in this fancy Manchester suburb delivers “delicious Sri Lankan food that’s perfectly cooked”, whether you opt for the small plates, curries or grills – many being notably healthy to boot; it’s named for the imposing Sri Lankan Buddhist settlement Sigiriya rock.

2021 Review: “When all you want is an old-school burger”, these US-based arrivals of recent years really “hit the spot” – you can “build your own”, with “tons of accessories”; plus “seriously addictive fries”, “thick milkshakes”, and “more soda flavours than is reasonable”. “The eat-in experience is as depressing as McDonald’s”, though, in fact perhaps more so – “some branches have a strangely gloomy ambience” – but fans feel that “if you don’t mind 1980s-rock, a trip can still be surprisingly fun”.

This tiny spot is “the real deal for Spanish food”, its “authentic and delicious tapas” turning a Chorlton backstreet into “Las Ramblas of Manchester”. So well-known after 13 years that it “fills its tables from opening time to closing time”, it “now takes bookings, with the outside barrel table reserved for walk-ins”.

“Pizza with an inventive streak” – plus all the standards “for those who are less adventurous” – is the offer at this surviving branch of an independent Manchester group founded in 2000. The flagship in the city centre and the Didsbury branch have closed down in recent times, to the dismay of their many fans, leaving just Chorlton and Prestwick standing.

“Fantastic food” has been a consistent refrain of guests at Patrick Hannity’s West Didsbury brasserie for more than 35 years – many of whom return again and again – “we only go on my birthday (due to distance) but it’s the meal I most look forward to each year”. The modern British cooking with European touches is always up-to-date on seasonality, and in 2008 Patrick became one of the first restaurateurs to invest in his own smallholding to provide ingredients for the kitchen. “The fixed-price menu (weekday lunch and early evening) is fairly short on options but reliably high on quality” – and at £16 per person for two courses or £20 for three represents tremendous value.