Thelwall, French Restaurant Guide

“Truly fine dining without being stuffy” isn’t an easy act to pull off, but Olivier Troalen’s “traditional Gallic” venture (he first worked in England at the French Embassy in London) in the Cheshire suburbs does it with aplomb; by all accounts it “never fails to satisfy”, its “healthy northern portions” pairing with “meticulous presentation and high-quality ingredients” (“you can invite anyone, assured they won’t be disappointed”).

“An excellent local restaurant with talent in the kitchen (Miarisuz Dobies) and professional front of house” (his wife); regulars are “never disappointed” by the French- and Central European-inflected food (including five- or seven-course tasting menus), with “every detail wonderful and made in-house”.