Nether Poppleton, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“Combining skill and originality in equal measure – with a menu that’s is unexpected and exciting”; Tommy Banks’s converted pub in the city centre is applauded in all reports as a “fabulous” destination: “knowledgeable service coupled with the beautiful presentation and amazingly flavoured food makes for a truly unforgettable meal”. However, even those who acknowledge that it’s “excellent” still often feel that “bills are simply excessive” (“we love Tommy Banks, but won’t be returning”). The overall verdict? “Excellent… but at a price”.

2021 Review: “Never had a bad meal”, say fans of this “favourite” tiny bistro, off the Gillygate, serving “excellent ingredients prepared with some imagination”. It can feel “rather cramped inside”, though. Top Tip: “go for the garden room in summer, under the medieval city wall”.

In a “great location” by the River Ouse, this characterful gastropub was opened 11 years ago by chef Andrew Pern as a city counterpart to his acclaimed Star Inn at Harome in North Yorkshire. “The cuisine still fails to meet expectations”, though – a recurrent theme, with reporters describing it as “good but not spectacular” or at best “better than expected given the poor reviews”.

This deli-café in a former grocer’s shop is “worth the queue” for a coffee and a treat, while the “surf ’n’ turf lunch is also very good”. Success has led to spinoffs in Helmsley and, last year, in Easingwold (where it’s called OPC after the old police cells on the premises).

“An institution in York, and a ‘must’ on any visit to the city” – this central branch of Bettys dates from 1936, with an interior inspired by the ocean liner Queen Mary, and its Belmont Room – named after Frederick Belmont, the Swiss confectioner who founded the Harrogate original in 1919 – is “a real treat”. “There’s no place like Bettys if you want to enjoy a classic afternoon tea with as many of the trimmings as you want” – “the quality of the food offering is never in doubt but what is exceptional is the professionalism and efficiency of the staff”.

2022 Review: The York branch of Richard Caring’s glossy Ivy chain generates most enthusiasm for its attractive interior, which makes it a pleasant spot to while away an hour or two – including over afternoon tea – especially if you can nab a table by the full-length windows (difficult to guarantee, since tables are allocated on arrival).

“Fabulous food at a reasonable price” is endorsed by every report on Adam & Lovaine Humphrey’s stylish city-centre venue – and the “surprise extras” including “high-quality canapés, amuse bouches and the English cheese takes on worldwide alternatives” all go down a treat. Adam is originally from Yorkshire, but the couple ran restaurants in Australia for almost 20 years – more conservative diners may feel “the startling white decor would fit better in trendy Sydney” but most reports give it a strong thumbs up.

“A high-end restaurant without all the flummery and fuss that is often associated with good restaurants” has cemented the longstanding appeal of this modern British bistro (est. 1990) from the Roux-trained Michael Hjort (director of York Food Festival) and FOH wife Lucy. “Melton’s has long been a mainstay of the York food scene and long may it continue”!

2022 Review: “A great place for a civilised lunch” – so long as you don’t expect culinary fireworks. This impressive William & Mary country house on the outskirts of York is owned by the National Trust (and was once the residence of traveller and writer Lady Mary Wortley Montague, who introduced the practice of smallpox inoculation to Britain after witnessing it in Turkey).

“Unbeatable views of the Minster from the terrace” set the scene at this new April 2023 landmark, which has a “fabulous location next to York Minster” and which was opened with great fanfare shortly before his coronation by King Charles III and Queen Camilla. Despite its relatively recent opening, it instantly inspired very encouraging feedback in our annual diners’ poll – “an amazing new restaurant by local restaurateur Andrew Pern with a simple menu on the 150-seat terrace and fuller menu inside”. There’s “a very characterful interior in an old school” (the original use for this space, built in 1833) and – by the standards of touristy locations – promising reports of “excellent food”: “raw dishes and delicate starters followed up by interesting taste combinations”, with a heavy emphasis on local sourcing.

2023 Review: One of the North’s better wine bars – this small venue hosts an “amazing selection of wines,” backed up by a “short menu full of really good ingredients and tasty non-standard pizzas”. It’s a spin-off from Le Cochon Aveugle just up the street, whose closure announced last year came at the height of its renown and came as a shock to many. Owner Josh Overington said the Cave would carry on as usual.