Watlington, French Restaurant Guide

“Romantic, extravagant, memorable… and expensive” – Raymond Blanc’s “magical” fifteenth-century manor in a quiet village south of Oxford remains the most commented-on destination in our annual diners’ poll outside of London. For some lucky diners, it’s “an annual pilgrimage” for “a perfect weekend away” – “lunch can take all afternoon with a wander around the glorious garden” and an overnight stay in one of its cosseting suites contributes to the “best experience ever”. Even though it’s actually owned by LVMH nowadays, M Blanc himself is still often on-hand and contributes to a hand-on approach that’s “so professional”. And aficionados say that: “yes, you pay a lot of money; yes, some may find it a little less trendy in its decor and outlook; and yes, the cooking is in a specific style; but, this is an experience in wellbeing and one of life’s treats”. All that said, concerns over “gigabucks” pricing were more in evidence in a year that saw some discontinuities in the kitchen as chef Luke Selby took over from Gary Jones. While most reports still drooled over “outstanding cuisine that’s hard to better”, there were more who – while acknowledging “first-world problems” – found the food “underwhelming, having dreamt about going for years” (“was expecting to be wowed and enchanted like at other top rivals, but I rather found it all rather oversimplistic and non-memorable”). Still, for the majority the verdict remains “an absolute delight from start to finish” – “an indulgent place to dine and stay”.

“Great food, great live music and great attention to detail” add up to “a perfect venue” at this country pub, run for 35 years by former rock musician and self-taught chef Paul Clerehugh (ex-Sweet). It’s a “lovely building with great décor and a nice atmosphere”, and if the “portions are way too big” – most guests are very happy with that.

What to make of TV-star Tom Kerridge’s Thames Valley pub, which helped catapult him to stardom in 2012 when Michelin awarded the place two stars. The choice of this ordinary-feeling inn on the edge of town was always “a little quirky”, but for many years satisfaction levels here held up even if the “ambience varies depending on where you are sat, as it can be nice and atmospheric, or you can feel very much shunted to one side”. But for the most part, folks historically didn’t quibble: they just focused on the down-to-earth style and “very high-quality British cooking”. The latter is still sometimes applauded, even if dishes can seem “more traditional and less interesting/exciting than expected”. But the overall tide of sentiment has turned in recent years, with a growing view that “it’s such a pity that what was a fantastic restaurant has now become overpriced and overrated”. Even those who still hail it as “quite possibly the best gastropub in Britain” can still view it as “seriously overpriced and certainly not worthy of two Michelin stars”. And that’s still the upbeat verdict. More representative of feedback are those who say it’s “horrendously overpriced for what is only reasonable pub food” (“two stars? I’m sorry, but that really is a case of the ‘Emperor’s New Clothes’”). Despite this being one of Michelin’s worst ongoing conclusions, with their history of kowtowing to TV celebrities we’re not betting on a re-rating any time soon.

2022 Review: “Reliable cooking with a buzzy atmosphere” makes this 20-year-old city-centre outfit a useful option; it also gives vegans a decent choice of dishes.

This “reliable bistro” in a useful central location “can’t be beaten on price for lunch or pre-theatre, and the food is as near to authentic French as anywhere below comic prices”. It “seems to have been here forever”, having split off from a national chain of the same name that collapsed in 1998.

This “relaxed French bistro offering contemporary cuisine and good service” from chef-patron Pascal Wiedermann (ex-Terroirs) and his wife Laura has established a strong niche in Summertown, north of the city centre. A meal here is “always an enjoyable experience” – on a relatively “limited” menu, top billing goes to the steak frites.

This “very nice old village pub” has been transformed into an “authentic French restaurant” by “fabulous hosts” Antoine & Camille Chretien, who named it after their son. It’s a “lovely venue” that “stands out in the area” for its “superb cuisine” – no mean achievement when the next door village is host to Raymond Blanc’s famous Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons.