Le Saint Julien EC1

British people who’ve been to France – most people, that is – are very familiar with the idea of a proper French brasserie. We’ve seen dozens of ’em, in Paris and in almost any other French city of any size. And in New York too. Englishman Keith McNally has made Big Apple legends of such beautiful and authentic hommages to the concept as Balthazar and Pastis.

But not in London. Here, the concept has been devalued by the witless Café Rouges of the world. There are hardly any ‘real’ brasseries. Down Chelsea way, ‘La Brasserie’ has long been able to proclaim itself as such without much risk of confusion! In the West End, only Le Palais du Jardin really approaches a classic Parisian brasserie format.

But the tide may be turning. Knightsbridge’s Racine is a totally authentic French place that has carved out a real reputation for itself in the last couple of years. And the Wolseley (though it styles itself a Continental café) is a grand example of the breed.

It’s in the lower-mid price market, though, that the brasserie concept is most at home. So it was with some excitement that I noticed a bright blue awning overlooking Smithfield Market. On further investigation, I was not disappointed. Le Saint Julien – presided over by François Jobard from Provence – does indeed turn out to be as copper-bottomed a French brasserie as its name and presentation suggests, with a proper French menu, proper French staff and a proper French ambience. And almost proper French prices. Everything, in fact, très correct.

There’s absolutely no point in going through the menu. You’ve seen it a hundred times already. The wine list too. But how nice to see them here, in Farringdon.