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Richard and Peter Harden’s Review of Doukan SW18

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Straight from Central Casting, a ‘perfect local restaurant’, serving tasty Moroccan food in a comfortable and laid-back Wandsworth setting.

An early Sunday lunchtime provided the perfect opportunity to visit this Wandsworth Moroccan restaurant that’s been in the limelight more than most since it figured in one of Gordon Ramsay’s TV programmes.

The place does not seem to have had its head turned by celebrity. The immediate impression is warm and welcoming. Even a forest of laptops which Wandsworth folk seem to regard as their best friends on a Sunday morning, did not manage to chill the atmosphere (which by night would be quite romantic).

Service was not exactly polished – first and second courses arrived together, without any explanation or apology – but it’s certainly well-meaning, and prices are low enough to make one forgiving.

The food was pretty good too. The lentil soup was particularly tasty, and the chicken tagine proved hot and satisfying. Moroccan pastries, fabrication maison speak well of the baking skills in the kitchen.

If you’re looking for that ‘perfect local restaurant’, Gordon has indeed unearthed something that comes pretty close.

350 Old York Rd
020 8870 8280
£22 per head

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