Just off Regent Street, a handy brasserie-style operation serving thoroughly competent but rather unremarkable dishes at prices seemingly inflated by association with proprietor Gordon Ramsay. You never quite know what to expect at a Gordon Ramsay establishment. Within a mile or so of each other, you can have places which are very good (Pétrus, say), and […]

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From the (Lebanese) Maroush Group, a beautiful relaunch of a mega-grand St John’s Wood hostelry; despite the best efforts of the charming staff, and food which was at least satisfactory, the overwhelming impression from our visit was that the initial formula just does not ‘work’. Crocker’s Folly came into being, the legend goes, because Mr […]

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In a prime Chelsea location, a welcoming English bistro, serving tasty small plates in an setting of some rusticity; it looks set to become a popular standby, though prices for full meals can escalate. It was a little way into our lunch at Rabbit that it struck us what’s so odd about it. Here we […]

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A relaunched St James’s classic offering a decent ‘Big Night Out’ experience at pretty reasonable prices; dishes were inconsistent on our early-days visit, but those who choose carefully can eat well. Quag’s’ – a vast restaurant of some 300 seats, hidden away in the heart of St James’s – has, since its opening in the […]

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In Brick Lane’s Old Truman Brewery, a casual new diner from the founders of Wahaca; the food has its moments, but the whole experience can be somewhat uneven. Thomasina Miers and Mark Selby seem to be paid-up subscribers to the notion that the art of cool is being in the know. The name of the […]

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In the maze of cobbled streets near Spitalfields Market, a new Tuscan ‘villa’ serving a simple, fuss-free menu of steak and pasta, competently realised. Just south of Spitalfields Market is a cobbled maze of streets that look as though they might have sheltered Jack the Ripper. Its an atmospheric place with a couple of decent […]

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Near the grand City-fringe Italian of the same name, a large contemporary-style café-pizzeria-trattoria; some of the food is of very high quality, and some of the prices are very reasonable too – both fronts, though, offer some scope for greater consistency. How quickly we forget. When L’Anima opened back in 2008, it seemed remarkable that […]

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A relaunch, under unchanged ownership, of a dud former Shoreditch bar-restaurant (Beard to Tail, RIP) which looks set to become a handy all-day destination; our early-days visit was an all-round success, though the ‘new look’ may not fully be realised till Christmas. Under unchanged ownership, but new management, the Shoreditch premises once known as Beard-to-Tail […]

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A handy destination for visitors and locals alike, this British brasserie on the corner of Trafalgar Square is open all day and ideal for breakfast, coffee or tea; on our early-days visit, however, its attractions as a lunch or dinner destination were less persuasive. The Wolseley has a lot to answer for. When the Piccadilly […]

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Handy enough for a pricey shopping lunch near Ken High Street, this grandly marbled bar-cum-restaurant otherwise struck us as a venue without many obvious attractions. F. Scott Fitzgerald was right. The rich are different from you and me. They seem, for example, to deem only one decorative finish acceptable. And that is marble. Step forward, […]

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