Ambassador EC1

The Brackenbury in W6 has no great claim to fame nowadays. It's an ideal neighbourhood spot (I should know, as I live only a few doors away), but there's nothing to hint that when it opened in 1991 it was briefly at the forefront of London's gastro-revolution. Nobody expected to find such good food in a Hammersmith backstreet.

This new venture on trendy Exmouth Market is owned by Clive Greenhalgh -- the maitre d' of The Brackenbury in its heyday. His aims for this Spartan bar/restaurant seem similarly straightforward to those of The Brack’, but with a bluntness which seems very early 'noughties'.

The menu has the same Mod Brit’-style directness of ventures such as Spitalfields’s Canteen or St John's Bread & Wine -- if without any exagerated focus on actual native dishes. Of the numerous menu-options (including a breakfast selection, served from 9am, and bar snacks) we chose from the straightforward-sounding lunch menu. (At dinner, the range of dishes is a mite fancier.)

Parsley and Kale soup sounded far simpler than it actually was: a deeply satisfying broth, but with a range of interesting and subtle flavours. Sausage sandwich did just what it said on the tin, but I can’t imagine a much more satisfying version of the dish. Ham hock ballotine was a more obvious showcase for the evident skill of the kitchen and full of flavour. Puddings -- a chocolate cake and a quince and apple pavé -- were fine, if providing less impact than what had gone before.

The Brackenbury was and remains considerably cosier than this willfully hard-edged space, with its green-tinged walls, lino-tile floors and bright green Formica-topped tables. Charming and efficient staff, however, add some welcome warmth to the overall experience, and additional cheer is provided by the well-chosen selection of wines.