It’s nearly 20 years since the V&A famously promoted its restaurant under the strap-line “An ace caff with quite a nice museum attached”. Sadly, though, that the dining revolution of the intervening time too often passed over arts-venue catering. So despite ‘name’ backing from Oliver Peyton, we approached this new section of the National Gallery – which boasts its own entrance on St Martin’s Lane, and opening till 11pm – with no great expectations.
The menu is huge and simple, in grand Continental-café style, and with an array of breakfasting options available till noon. Snackier options predominate such as salads, a burger, tortilla or macaroni. Our selection included one of a handful of more ambitious dishes – duck confit with lentils. It was nothing fancy but hard to fault, and enjoyable fuel on a cold day. Amongst puds, quality ices are a particular feature, and ‘The National Catastrophe’ – a particularly calorific sundae-like creation – continued an enjoyable if not exceptional theme to the meal.
Service teetered between being well-meaning and a little amateurish. But though one might hesitate to use the space for client-entertaining, my dining companion – the MD of an armoured vehicle manufacturer on his way to meet the MOD – professed himself well-satisfied!
All-in-all this is certainly an ace-looking café with a museum attached. For a civilised central rendezvous, it’s well worth bearing in mind.
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