Angel, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

Set among the antiques shops of Camden Passage, this “comfortable” Islington institution has been superbly run by two generations of the Segal family for 55 years. The “simple but very good quality food is served in a bright and well-spaced conservatory dining room at the back”, at tables that are “nicely spaced”, with “just the right amount of buzz to have a conversation”. Top Tip – huge garden area for summer dining.

This “great neighbourhood gastropub” in Islington is “very strong all-round”, and the in-house butchery means it delivers a “stunning roast”. It’s still winning excellent ratings after a dozen years, with just a single gripe this year – “they only had one vaguely interesting beer on tap”.

James Dawson’s wine shops/clubs/bars are “great places to catch up with friends over a bottle you might never ordinarily have tried”. “The staff are super-helpful, with lots of suggestions” of bottles from independent and sustainable producers. The food is “OK if a little uninspiring”, but “who cares when there’s one evening a week when you can drink wine at retail prices”.

“Fantastically fun and fabulous food” from accomplished chef, James Cochran, is the pay-off for a visit to his Islington venue. “It’s definitely not a posh night out” – “the room is tiny” and it’s “a tricky and very cramped space” – but “the vibe is very upbeat and the meal is great value and highly recommended”. Top Menu Tip – “best fried chicken ever”.

2021 Review: “Our local – we’re so lucky!” Near the foodie mecca of Exmouth Market, this “busy” Clerkenwell corner-boozer receives a consistent thumbs-up in reports: “the standard of the food is high”.

2021 Review: “Lush surroundings” set a stylish tone at this “trendy”, six-year-old venue on a “hard-to-find” Farringdon corner, not far from Exmouth Market. It’s a ‘multi-faceted’ venue – a jumble of bar, café, restaurant, club, and private dining space – from a design team whose portfolio includes Pizza East and Riding House Café. “Fab cocktails” are maybe its most reliable attraction, although the food is consistently well-rated too.

“Fairy lights, greenery and charming decor create a warm and cosy atmosphere” at this still-expanding group, which is most popular as a “reliable and friendly brunch option”. Its Med-inspired tapas is typically rated somewhere between “tasty” and “nothing special” and scores overall are dragged well down by those experiencing “chaotic service” and “food that doesn’t live up to the pretty dining room”.

“The most original brunches” – with “a good selection of super-tasty, tapas-style dishes” fusing eclectic flavours from the Middle East to the Pacific – are the top feature of these “nicely vibey” haunts, which also boast “great coffee and pastries, plus interesting non-alcoholic drinks (like sodas and kombuchas)”. And they serve “lots for vegans and veggies too”. On the downside, they become “noisy”; staff can be “overstretched” and ratings are dragged down by those who find them “a convenient option, but, in truth, a slightly disappointing one”. Expansion is still on the cards, though, with 2023 seeing a big new opening in Covent Garden, in a workspace on Drury Lane, complete with outside terrace.

Due to open in the second half of 2023 – this historic Islington pie ’n’ mash shop in Chapel Market closed in 2018 but has been rescued by Alex Pashby of street-food trader The Beefsteaks (‘An exclusive 18th Century London steak club reimagined as inclusive 21st Century street food’). At first it will operate as a low-intervention wine bar serving British small plates – as it takes off, the hope is for the food offering to expand.