“Noisy, boisterous, and full of the surgically-enhanced”, this “big and brassy” Russian-backed newcomer is a “fun and glamorous” Mayfair arrival… for those who like that sort of thing; the Asian-fusion fare is “surprisingly good”, but “you do need to be an oligarch to endure the eye-watering prices”.
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If a success, this 400-seat Mayfair newcomer could quite possibly end up biggest-grossing restaurant in London. Comprising large dining rooms both Italian and Asian and an enormous basement bar, it...
Press Reviews (2)
Jay Rayner (19th February 2012)
Visiting the Italian section (reminiscent of “mega restaurants of Las Vegas”), Jay has an experience that makes “a special new low” for London. His meal is “generally very, very bad” with “prices that knock the wind out of you and moments of cooking so cack-handed, so foul, so astoundingly grim you want to congratulate the kitchen on its incompetence”. So he liked it a lot then! But “the most depressing thing?” - as for John Lanchester the fact that it’s “full; packed to the fake ironwork with the hooting and the depilated, the bronzed and Botoxed”.
John Lanchester (18th February 2012)
Not just “a dog’s dinner”, but “a howling dog” of a restaurant. In the Asian section of the venture, John Lanchester encounters “ordinary food which he acknowledges might have been “bad luck”, but he had “lots of it”. The main issue: “you can get most of what’s on the menu better and cheaper elsewhere”. He concedes there are some signs of “real professionalism at work: the room is understatedly dark and soothing; the waiters are amiable and efficient”. And the place is full. “In Mayfair today, this is how they roll.”