This new restaurant is so-called because it’s right by the Bank of England, right? Well, possibly, but it also owes its name to its older South Bank sibling, near to the Bankside power station (now better known as Tate Modern). If they keep up the theme then finding a site for the third in the chain should prove interesting’

Both ventures are handy-to-know-about basements in areas short on good eating options. This makes it somewhat easier to forgive their Identikit, clean-lined but soulless modern interiors. Logos on the menu and walls show off the firm’s Investor in People and Business in the Community awards. Training is, of course, a Good Thing but being reminded about it can hit the wrong note. The welcome from staff was conscientiously friendly, but I did wonder if there was a procedure manual reminding everyone to keep smiling.

The menu groups dishes by price. I went for gazpacho (£5), followed by chicken in a garlic and tomato sauce (£10.50). Dishes were sufficiently simple as to be arguably more catering than cooking, but represented very reasonable value. For pudding (£5) I felt compelled to try the cappucino crème brûlee with a marshmallow meringue top. Surely it would be vile’ but it was delicious!

Having paid up, I was (as all guests were) charmingly dragooned by the manager into seeing the function space. If anything, though, it has more character than the main restaurant and – for an affordable bash in the heart of the City – you could do much worse.

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