Bincho Yakitori W1

A disappointing second branch of the Japanese skewer chain, far inferior to the South Bank original.

When we reviewed the original Bincho Yakitori, almost a year ago, we noted the obvious point that features which can make a good restaurant, apart from good food, include an interesting location, and a cool design. The original BY – on the second floor of the Oxo Tower – had all three.

Well, how’s this for an example of brand inconsistency? The new BY might be said to have an interesting location – on Soho’s crusiest drag – but what immediately strikes you on entering is that it has a distinctly uncool design. In fact it looks like any oriental eatery on the cheap, and even more so as it’s already looking so worn in you suspect it was partially inherited from the previous occupant of the site, the short-lived Suzie Wong.

On the food front, the menu is apparently unchanged in Soho, but whereas we enjoyed pretty much everything we ate at the original BY, the new one rang no bells at all. Admittedly, we just popped in for the £10 set lunch, and you do get quite a lot of skewers for your money. Sadly, though, we just didn’t really enjoy any of 'em, and were only too pleased at the earliest opportunity to scarper next door to Aroma, for a reviving éclair and espresso.

So, accept no substitute. If you want the proper BY experience, head for the South Bank.