“Slightly Manhattanite, but very British”, this panelled Soho dining room (part of the trendy Soho House group) is “the place to go for people-watching and general glamour”; the food – “homely” or “plain and unimaginative”, according to your viewpoint – is rather incidental.
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How does Richard Caring do it? As restaurant groups get bigger, there is – nearly two decades of Harden’s research suggests – an almost invariable tendency for them to get worse. Not so, it ...
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Press Reviews (12)
Jasper Gerard (26th April 2010)
5/10
A mixed review of the Soho restaurant; the interior is “dangerously fun”, but the traditional British cuisine is a “all a bit ration book” - special mention to “niggardly and chewy” chicken, bacon and leek pie and “clubland predictables” for dessert. All in all “[i]t’s smoothly done but tradition without a twist can be deadly”.
Matthew Norman (1st March 2010)
The critic visits leads the latest outposte of the Richard Caring empire, in Soho, and finds it “as close to flawless as seems decent”.
AA Gill (22nd February 2010)
Food 3/5 stars, Atmosphere 4/5 stars
The critic visits the mega-successful new addition to the Caprice group, where he finds the food “good enough, in a collegiate, common-room way”.
Zoe Williams (15th February 2010)
9/10
The “sheer pedigree” of this Soho restaurant (“Nick Jones of Soho House combined with Richard Caring of the Ivy”) raises the expectations of the critic, and she is not disappointed – everything is “exceptionally well done”.
Jay Rayner (1st February 2010)
The menu at this Soho newcomer presents “the last 10 years of British food in one tidy list”, says the critic. “That's the point. The Soho House Group, the company behind Dean Street, has worked to create a completely unshocking and therefore thoroughly soothing experience. Your granny would like it.” The Group, though, “would all be gauche and nauseating were it not for the professionalism of the operations”, if it were not a “carefully managed machine”, even if one with “some grit between the cogs” at the moment.
Giles Coren (1st February 2010)
8.67
The critic (who took over most of Saturday’s Times magazine, if you include his long and fascinating article of an American foodie cult) continues to be struck by the sheer luvvie fabulousness of Richard Caring’s Soho newcomer. So many names dropped in a single article: is this some sort of record?
Richard Vines (28th January 2010)
3/4 stars
He has the odd gripe, but the critic is generally impressed with the new Soho outpost of the Soho House group, where “the menu is refreshingly unchallenging if you are familiar with British food, and the prices are as friendly as most of the staff”.
Marina O'Loughlin (7th January 2010)
The lastest Richard Caring production, in Soho, may have a “slightly-too-slick” air about it, but, for the critic, “it works”. “Nuts to your Connaughts and Dorchesters with their over-egged luxury; my hotel of choice is this one.”
John Walsh (4th January 2010)
Food 4/5 stars, Ambience 4/5 stars, Service 4/5 stars
Richard Caring’s new establishment “brings style and warmth to the heart of Soho”, says the critic, and “you can't move for people trying to get in”. And so begins a hymn of praise, which lasts all the way to the end of the piece. “If ever there's a London restaurant to enter out of the winter snow and fall in love with, this is it.”
Toby Young (21st December 2009)
15/20
“Talk about the right DNA. The Dean Street Townhouse is the brainchild of Nick Jones, the entrepreneur who founded the Soho House Group, and Richard Caring, the owner of Le Caprice, the Ivy, J Sheekey, Scott's, Annabel's, Mark's Club, Harry's Bar and dozens of other top-flight restaurants and clubs. Caring became the majority shareholder in the Soho House Group in 2008 and this is their first big joint venture in London.”
Guy Dimond (10th December 2009)
4/5 stars
“Comfort food is in”, says the critic, and “New Austerity the aesthetic”. “[S]upper clubs are booming, staying in is the new going out. But I never thought it would come to this. Soho House Group, now owned by Richard Caring of Caprice Holdings yet still one of the coolest hospitality outfits in our scintillating city, have decided that the future is sherry trifle (‘to share’), and treacle sponge with custard. This new Soho dining room does everything very well, though, making the place an all-round hit.
David Sexton (3rd December 2009)
4/5 stars
“You have to admire a restaurant that makes its signature dish mince and boiled potatoes”, says the critic, and this latest addition to the Soho House empire “delivers an object lesson in how to write a menu full of the straightforward things people actually want to eat and then deliver it all superbly well, with good service, in pleasing surroundings.”