Copythorne, Italian Restaurant Guide

“The Italian-style food is a treat to behold” at this out-of-town retreat from Anglo-Italian chef Angela Hartnett (of Murano in Mayfair) with chef Luke Holder, in a New Forest hotel that’s “a place to be seen in, for a special occasion”. “Full of character and brimming with fine furnishings”, it’s “a beautiful venue for a (pricey) treat”, although lapses drag the ratings down: more critical diners feel “it’s a very good restaurant, but it never seems to get everything completely right at the same time!” and service in particular can be “surprisingly varied”. Top Tip – “ask for a table in the more attractive main room when booking”.