Aylsham, British, Traditional Restaurant Guide

“Set in the deer-filled grounds of a stately home” and owned by Chelsea art dealer Ivor Braka, this much commented-on pub-with-rooms “shows more contemporary art on its walls than the average West End gallery” (Tracey Emin, Lucian Freud, Damien Hirst, Anthony Caro and co.). Mark Hix alumni Stuart & Simone Tattersall oversee the victuals: mostly “meat and game from local estates” (“some cooked on the open fire”), but the “broad and inventive” menu isn’t just for carnivores. “Top Menu Tip – the whole shared-chicken Sunday Roast is beautifully done and excellent value”.

2021 Review: “After nearly 30 years under the same ownership” owner James Sawrey-Cookson retired and this “well-loved Norwich institution” changed hands last year: bought by a number of business-minded regulars. Chef of three years’ standing, Iain McCarten is “well into his stride, but what makes this place so popular is the whole atmosphere (there is a real sense of belonging”). “Hopefully the new owners don’t ruin the formula” although change is certainly afoot, with a new outside terrace and adjoining brasserie section opening in autumn 2019.

This “thoroughly reliable pub” is “just a short stroll from the coast” with views across the salt marshes. “Everything works well despite the casual, almost laid-back approach”, while “the imaginative menu is definitely a notch above the pub norm”.