In “rough and ready” Borough Market – and now in more “glamorous” and “restaurant-like” premises in Soho too – these “bubbly” bars have won cult status for their “heavenly bivalves”, and other “awesome, fresh seafood”; the original branch is better.
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The only real problem with the Wright Brothers oyster bar at Borough Market has always been that it’s too cramped and busy. We suspect that its new offshoot, near Carnaby Street, will soon be ver...
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Press Reviews (1)
Jay Rayner (13th December 2010)
Certain types of restaurant have a vocabulary and grammar all of their own. Urban oyster houses are just such. It's all bare brick and scrubbed floorboards. It's men with forearms like oak trees prising meats from shells, and counter service. Eating alone at this sort of oyster house is what the Jews call a mitzvah, a blessing. Or would do if oysters weren't forbidden. My, but the Jewish god is such a terribly picky eater.
Jay Rayner (13th December 2010)
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