“An outstanding, encyclopaedic wine list with multiple vintages of great wines” remains a particular highlight of a visit to this “tranquil” and business-friendly (and “astronomically expensive”) Mayfair stalwart; the cuisine of new chef Arnaud Bignon, however, is “amazing” too.
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This review is a self-confessed “sham”: the critic dines in the private dining room of this Mayfair restaurant, under his own name, and with three other critics. He is there as part of the judging panel for the London Restaurant Festival Awards, and whilst we learn more about his own lack of confidence as a critic, he gives a positive impression of this “perennial top-end favourite”. He finds it a “very elegant, unusually masculine” space, and is “charmed” by the “clever” cuisine of head chef Antonin Bonnet.
Marina O'Loughlin (6th March 2008)
“The Greenhouse costs a lot of money: live with it or leave it… I'd choose to live with it whenever possible: it's that good.” Right from the beginning, the critic doesn’t leave us in much doubt about her views on this relaunched Mayfair mews restaurant, which now has “an air of understated, power-broking luxury” (and a clientèle “overwhelmingly made up of male City types”). Downsides? A “sickly” pudding, and staff who seemed “a little headless chickeny”.