“West End-quality food well below West End prices”, from chef Andrew McLeish, has carved out a huge reputation for this “superb” stalwart – an unusually notable destination by suburban standards.
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John Walsh (7th June 2010)
Food 5/5 stars, Service 4/5 stars, Ambience 3/5 stars
The critic visits a restaurant with a “relaxed, nostalgic feel about it”. It turns out that the chef “trained with Nico Ladenis at Chez Nico and has inherited all the great man's virtues” – “his cooking combines vertiginous sophistication with fabulous flavours”. “Chapter One is my top gastronomic find of the year so far.” ["Find" is being used here in rather special sense: the restaurant enjoys the top rating for food in the current edition of Harden’s, for example.]