“Unbeatable for wowing foreigners!” – London’s oldest restaurant (1798) offers “old-world” (Edwardian) “opulence”, “relaxed charm” and “good, solid British food” too; ever more “frightening” prices, however, risk making it a place for “rich tourists and expense-accounters”.
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Bread which was “beyond belief horrific” set a sour note for Mr Winner’s review of London’s oldest restaurant. His soup was “British Rail 1953” (“which is no great insult as 1953 was a good year for British Rail soup”). His shepherd’s pie was “okay, not as good as one I got at home a few days later”, and his treacle sponge was “pleasant”. Service was “very slow”. But at least the chips looked home-made.
Michael Winner (6th August 2007)
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