“More than a pub… a super-pub!”; “with its vast warren of rooms and terraces”, this perennially hip Kensal Green tavern “takes shabby-chic to a whole new level”; given that “the venue is the star”, it’s all the more remarkable that “food and service are fantastic” too!
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The critic visits a “swaggering” and “ambitious” restaurant that's “more clubby than pubby” in Kensal Green. Dishes including Poole Harbour oysters, smoked mackerel and Drambuie paté, and sea bream are largely successful, although “[t]he constant quest for high impact evident in the cooking here seems sometimes to go too far”. All in all, this is “a slick, impressive operation”.