“There’s always a fun time to be had”, at this “lovely” Kensal Green stalwart – a “sprawling” places with many rooms, terraces and a garden; the cooking’s “almost too good to be called pub food” – “go early to avoid the scrum” (especially at weekends).
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The critic visits a “swaggering” and “ambitious” restaurant that's “more clubby than pubby” in Kensal Green. Dishes including Poole Harbour oysters, smoked mackerel and Drambuie paté, and sea bream are largely successful, although “[t]he constant quest for high impact evident in the cooking here seems sometimes to go too far”. All in all, this is “a slick, impressive operation”.
David Sexton (8th April 2010)
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