“The bill could bail out Greece!”, but Michel Roux’s “rock-solid” Mayfair stalwart is “the real McCoy”; yes, it is “stuffy” and “a little dated”, but – with its “opulent” cuisine and “perfect” service – it really does offer “old-school luxury at its finest”; the set lunch, famously, is an “absolute winner” – book well ahead.
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The chef who kicked off Bibendum, acting as stand-in critic, visits this Mayfair legend to commemmorate the retirement of maître d’ Silvano Giraldin, “after 33 years of loyal service… as probably the finest restaurant manager this country has known”. The famously good-value set lunch does not let him down.
Simon Hopkinson (8th September 2008)
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