“Still cutting it after all these years”, Michel Roux’s “remarkable” Mayfair basement (established by father Albert in 1967) stands out for its “sheer professionalism”, and its “peerless” realisation of “classic” Gallic cuisine; it’s “astronomically expensive”, of course, making “the best-value set lunch in town” all the more of a “bargain”.
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The chef who kicked off Bibendum, acting as stand-in critic, visits this Mayfair legend to commemmorate the retirement of maître d’ Silvano Giraldin, “after 33 years of loyal service… as probably the finest restaurant manager this country has known”. The famously good-value set lunch does not let him down.
Simon Hopkinson (8th September 2008)
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