For a “sexy night out”, these “slick”, “noisy” and “über-expensive” Chinese hotspots “still rock”, not least for those in search of “London’s most finely executed dim sum”; the “très flash” new branch in Mayfair “raises the bar even higher than the original” (near Tottenham Court Road).
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Alan Yau’s famous oriental West End basement may have been sold – “to an Abu Dhabi-based company… in January 2008”, but Yau is still very much in evidence, and “so far, it seems it’s business as usual”. This means it’s good but pricey, so the top tip is “to go at lunchtime, ask for the dim sum menu (and you do have to ask), and you can feast for under £20 per head”.
uper-cool designer basement down the end of an unpromising alleyway just north of Oxford Street. The walk down the dark spiral staircase does not prepare you for the carefully lit, artfully architected dining room (with obligatory trendy bar). The lighting is very clever, appearing very dark and private overall but having well directed spot lighting onto each table so you can read the menu. Overall the effect is very romantic. The menu is broad and appealing, with dim sum at lunch excellent, as good as any in London.
(6th November 2008)
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