“What Café Rouge used to aspire to be”; Richard Caring’s burgeoning group of Gallic bistros may seem increasingly “formulaic”, but it can still offer some “pleasant surprises” on the food front, and “by high street chain standards, service and atmosphere are excellent too”.
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We are getting more and more preoccupied by the bistro question. Why, with so few exceptions, is London – culinary capital of the world, blah, blah – incapable of re-creating the virtues of the...
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Press Reviews (1)
Toby Young (3rd September 2009)
13/20
The Wardour Street branch of Richard Caring’s “French lite” chain is “surprisingly full” on the critic’s weekday visit. He is, however, not particularly impressed; the “Eurozone” décor is “generic” and the food is “a mixed bag”. “Given what Côte charges”, he concludes, “I had been hoping for slightly better”.