Not everyone likes the “formal, rarefied and businessy” style of this Westminster Italian – a shame, as its “classic Tuscan dishes” are “robust” and of “good quality”, and complemented by an “enterprising” wine list.
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It’s a little-known fact that Claudio Pulze has opened as many London restaurants as Sir Terence Conran – they both claim just over 50. Their approaches, however, tend to be diametrically oppos...
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Press Reviews (4)
Toby Young (19th April 2010)
12/20
A review of Westminster Italian where “the interior looks expensive, as befits a bolthole for Britain's political elite”. (We're really not sure that it does look particularly expensive: it just looks wholly uninspired.) The cuisine generally pleases, although the critic and his guests “are not quite as blown away as we'd been expecting” and the he new chef is “not paying as much attention to dressings and sauces as he should”. Service, too, is “below par”.
Andy Lynes (15th April 2009)
3/5 stars
“Owner Claudio Pulze has more than 30 years’ experience of opening restaurants in London so it’s no surprise that Osteria Dell'Angolo gets lots of important little things right”, says Metro’s (regular) stand-in critic. “Front of house staff beam; olives and breadsticks wrapped in Parma ham served with our aperitifs are delicious; there’s a sommelier who doesn't blink an eyelid when asked for some suggestions under £30 on the predominantly Italian list”, and “[i]f pasta is the jewel in the crown of an Italian restaurant then Osteria Dell'Angolo is sporting some serious rocks in its figurative headgear”.
Tracey MacLeod (6th April 2009)
Food 4/5 stars, Ambience 2/5 stars, Service 4/5 stars
How absolutely true is the description of this Westminster newcomer, which “has the kind of bland, complacent atmosphere you get in movies just before Jason Bourne comes bursting in feet-first through the window”. “All the character comes from the food, which is inspired by head chef Michele Brogi’s upbringing in Tuscany’s Valdarnese Valley... [t]he menu is full of intriguing dishes, most of which sound a great deal better in Italian than they do in their English translations”.
Guy Dimond (11th February 2009)
4/6 stars
“This ‘corner tavern’ is in reality a full-blown fine dining restaurant from restaurateur Claudio Pulze, who has been responsible for creating more good restaurants in London’s than Terence Conran and Gordon Ramsay put together”, says Time Out’s head man. (He may not be quite right: we believe Pulze and Conran are responsible for roughly 50 each). The chef offers “carefully-presented dishes using simple but good ingredients”, but they are “not textbook Italian” – “[i]t’s either irony, or he trained at the Little Chef”. Fortunately, the critic concludes that it is the former.
Toby Young (19th April 2010)
Andy Lynes (15th April 2009)
Tracey MacLeod (6th April 2009)
Guy Dimond (11th February 2009)
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