Once a glamorous Knightsbridge linchpin, this Chinese restaurant can seem “a little passé” nowadays, but it still turns out “decent” chow in a “civilised” setting, say fans; critics, though, find the whole experience “so overpriced, you’re left wondering whether the food was nice after all”.
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ES magazine’s new critic (Toby Young having moved on a few months ago) reviews London “very first celebrity restaurant”. “The room is intimate [and] the light flattering”. “This is a Chinese restaurant, but not as you would know it. There are no chopsticks and all the waiters are Italian. And not one customer was Chinese.” He enjoys his visit to an establishment superficially little-changed since its 1968 opening. “But for cutting-edge Mr Chow and the real celebrities, head for Beverly Hills.”
Mark Bolland (25th June 2007)
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