“Still the best North London gastropub” – this Kentish Town mega-hit is a “perfect local”, where the attractions include “utterly delicious” food, “humorous” staff and a “great location next to the Heath”; “the only drawback is that it’s always way too loud”.
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Thanks not least to having an appreciative Times reviewer (Giles Coren) living almost literally on its doorstep, this plain but attractive boozer has quickly established itself as quite a north Lon...
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Press Reviews (2)
David Sexton (10th December 2008)
4/5 stars
“When you hit upon a really good gastropub you begin to wonder why you’d want to go anywhere else”, observes the critic, “[a]nd the Bull & Last, up the hill from Gospel Oak station, is about as good as it gets”.
Having “been back and back and back. Ten, maybe 12 visits.”, Giles has “never been anywhere so many times before a review” than to his newly revamped local “on the edge of what estate agents call Dartmouth Park (always be suspicious of an area named after a park that doesn’t exist)” and “150 yards from my front door”. He’s not shy in his praise for “some of the best pub food I’ve ever eaten”. Hearty-sounding scoff from pea fritters to pig’s head and gribiche that’s “interesting”… “fascinating”… “rare and thrilling”…“so perfect”. Apparently “some people around think the place looks a bit funny: there are huge cows’ heads mounted above the bar, and a red wall covered in tankards” but all-in-all he judges it still “very much a pub”, with staff full of “knowledge and enthusiasm” and a wine list showing “variety and value”.
David Sexton (10th December 2008)
Giles Coren (20th October 2008)
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