“Wonderful South African wines” – you choose by “nipping down to the cellar” – are the highlight of this City spot, hidden-away near the wobbly bridge, and it enjoys “fine” Thames views; in comparison, the food – “excellent” steaks apart – can seem “a tasty sideline”.
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“It's not that the food or service at this wine-led restaurant (jointly owned by the South African Jordan winery and Neleen Strauss, formerly of Vivat Bacchus fame) is bad”, says the critic, but its “dead-end location” (on the river in Blackfriars) and “sober, low-ceilinged dining room” don’t make for an enjoyable experience. Furthermore, “the shtick here” – to be led into the cellar (“a chilly and unremarkable stockroom”) to pick out a wine from “row upon row of unpriced bottles” – leaves him feeling “ever so gently mugged.”
Tracey MacLeod (4th May 2009)
Food 3/5 stars, Ambience 3/5 stars, Service 3/5 stars
It may be difficult to access, but this City newcomer “really is a room with a view, not just of the Tate Modern and Globe Theatre, but of the passing show of river traffic, from police launches to party boats”. The wine is “the big draw here”, but the food is only “decent enough”.
Guy Dimond (30th April 2009)
4/6 stars
“This new steakhouse is already proving a hit with besuited City diners”, says TO’s head man, “and no wonder. High Timber’s menu is simple to the point of being dull, but that makes choosing easier; conducting business over a challenging, fiddly meal is never a good idea anyway”. Wine mark-up may be “steep’, but “this is not the sort of restaurant where the target clientele will either notice or care about the restaurant’s own bonus system”. “High Timber will be kept busy by expense accounts regardless because it’s the ideal spot for clinching those deals.”