“An amazing experience”; Daniel Clifford’s “highly creative” cuisine – “superbly inventive without losing its delicious flavour” – makes this swanky spot by the River Cam (no view) not just “the best restaurant in the Fens”, but one of the UK’s best too; critics still find the place “overpriced”, but they’re less vocal than they were.
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The critic visits an “extremely well run and likable restaurant presided over by an inventive, gifted chef driven by the desire to please punters rather than inspectors”. “So it bloody well should be, you might say on noting the price”, observes the critic, “but it has been a long time since I paid a bill nudging £80 a head (we had just two glasses of house wine between us) without a rush of psychotic resentment”.
Matthew Norman (1st February 2010)
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