This “cool” Victorian lido (which is “wonderfully lit” by night) makes such a “beautiful” and “unusual” setting that it’s surprising just how “good and interesting” the“North African-influenced” food is; service, though, is “haphazard” at times.
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Cuisine of “unexpected” quality is found by the critic at an establishment that’s all “about its pool, its spa and the waterside café”. On a “corker” of a menu, “[f]lavours are big and the essentials carefully managed”, with “many of its ingredients from its own kitchen garden.” Ravioli of venison, “a big, paunchy, self-assured dish” of slow-roasted shoulder of lamb, and ice-creams “to make you dream of real summer days” attract particular praise.
Zoe Williams (7th December 2009)
6/10
A leisure destination with a “wonderful view”, but where main courses, in particular, are “disappointing”.
Tracey MacLeod (10th February 2009)
Food 3/5 stars, Ambience 4/5 stars, Service 3/5 stars
“The sunlight dances on the infinity pool, as a swimmer completes another lazy lap. At our table high over the water, we're sipping Macabeo and mopping up chilli-spiked clam broth with a hunk of thick-crusted bread, fresh from the wood-fired oven. Our holiday destination today is suburban Bristol, where a defunct Victorian lido has been transformed into a cool, urban oasis.” The food may have been “only intermittently yummy”, but it included “some real hits”.
Jay Rayner (4th May 2010)
Zoe Williams (7th December 2009)
Tracey MacLeod (10th February 2009)
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