“Inspired”, “exquisite”, “stunning”; Glynn Purnell’s “understated” and “welcoming” (if slightly “stark”) city-centre dining room isn’t just Brum’s top spot nowadays – his “original” and “complex” food puts it firmly in the UK’s premier culinary league.
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“What comes first”, muses the critic, “the winning of a Michelin star, or the desire to poach an egg yolk without the white and put cornflakes on it?” We can somersault over the rest of the piece, and move straight to her conclusion on the much lauded spot: “This is ambitious, at times inspiring, food; like all ambition, sometimes it looks – or is – a bit silly. But I don't mind that”.
Tracey MacLeod (1st April 2008)
Rating 4/5 stars on all counts
“The ridicule is unfair”, says the critic, remonstrating with the unnamed website – that would be Harden’s, then – which recently made fun of Birmingham being appointed a member of a culinary panel which also included the likes of Lyon. There are “enough decent middle- to high-ranking restaurants to constitute a dining scene”, she remonstrates (albeit – as she chides – “not one you'd automatically compare with Lyon”).
Jay Rayner (11th September 2007)
Mr. Rayner enjoys the cuisine at this “sleek” Birmingham newcomer, where the “very attractive” fare overall provides a “truly great meal”. Textures are “delicate”, and the dessert is so good it “can't be faked”.
Terry Durack (4th September 2007)
Mr. Durack finds “the delicacy of execution and simplicity of presentation… matched by the layered complexity of tastes and textures” at this “polished and assured” and “very Birmingham” newcomer. The “full-flavoured” fare makes this a “foodie destination”.