“Very good food”, “attentive” service and some “interesting” and “affordable” wines – all help maintain the appeal of this well-spaced city-centre spot as a “perfect” business rendezvous.
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The critic does not begin his meal in the best of moods: he is in Birmingham, in a “cavernous” restaurant that has a “sterile” atmosphere and a “vista of the ring road”. However, the “outstanding cooking” soon has him “beaming” and he praises the “unshowy” style and “commitment to first-rate ingredients [which] is matched with real lightness of touch.”