“A treasure trove of well-selected wines at fair prices” has helped put Roger & Sue Jones’s “welcoming” inn on the map, and many reporters feel the food is “fabulous” too; there’s a disgruntled minority though, who feel standards have “gone off the boil”.
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Rather confusingly, the critic begins – for reasons which are not entirely clear – by reviewing a pub called the Bell in Ramsbury, Wiltshire, where “there’s a fairly short but imaginative menu, extremely well cooked by the young and clever chef”. Not so far away, at the supposed subject of his review, he finds “at least three dishes on the menu that are as good as anything I have ever eaten” – no small achievement, considering the place’s “USP” [unique selling proposition] is supposed to be its wines.
Rod Liddle (26th March 2008)
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